St Cuthbert

This works to dazzling effect, highlighting, especially, the extravagantly decorated 16th century tie beam roof of the nave, which bristles with brightly painted carved angels, shields and rosettes. It was repainted in 1963, but in colours believed to be close to those of the original scheme.

A new church here, replacing an even earlier foundation, was begun in the early 13th century, around the same time as the building of the cathedral.

Thereafter, for some 300 years, the race was on to make this building taller and better, as though in competition with its illustrious neighbour. Until 1561 St Cuthbert's even had two towers, the second one at the crossing; it must have been a severe blow, both to the structure and to local pride, when this collapsed.

A happier event was the Victorian rediscovery of two stone reredoses, one in each transept. They had been severely damaged and then covered with plaster at the time of the Reformation. One of them, a rare representation in stonework of a Tree of Jesse, can be confidently dated to 1470, the contract with its maker still exists.

Furnishings and fittings to look out for include the wooden pulpit of 1636, with carved depictions of stories from the Old Testament, and some fine Victorian work that includes the choir stalls and a splendid eagle lectern.