All Saints
Barry, South Glamorgan
On the site of a Celtic monastery, this gem of a church is perhaps best known today for the discovery of medieval wall paintings in 2008.
Llancarfan, Glamorgan
When layers of whitewash were removed, vibrant images were revealed including the seven deadly sins, Death dragging a young man out to the churchyard, and one of the most spectacular tableaux of St George and the Dragon in a British church.
The history of the church goes back much further than this. It was founded as a monastery by the great St Cadoc in the 6th century, and its name comes from the stags which helped his monks to haul wood for the buildings. The earliest part of the present church is 12th century, it has part of its medieval rood screen and some very rare carved panelling behind the altar, there are fascinating tombstones and a font with nine sides.
But the wall paintings are what makes the church really exciting. St George is three times life size, on horseback, stabbing the dragon while the princess and her parents look on. The Death figure is truly gruesome, with worms and toads crawling over its body. The Sins are graphically depicted, with little demons encouraging the sinners to worse and worse deeds. Facing these are moving scenes of the Seven Corporal Acts of Mercy: a poor person being clothed, a sick bed and a funeral.
There is still more to be found. Painted plaster over the chancel arch was probably a terrifying Last Judgement. These paintings were all whitewashed over at the Reformation. Less spectacular but still intriguing, texts were then painted on top of them; verses from the Psalms, part of the Lord’s Prayer, and the Apostles Creed.
Barry, South Glamorgan
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